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Review

Cheyne Walk Brasserie

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With its emphasis on French cuisine, and Chelsea location, you’d be forgiven for expecting Cheyne Walk Brasserie to be austere and cooler-than-thou, one of those places populated exclusively by the rich and/or thin and/or beautiful.
And it’s all the above. But it also manages to be friendly and relaxed. Though that could have been the Elderflower Martini that kicked off a memorable evening.
Interestingly, the main selling point isn’t a reliance on heavy French sauces or strange bits of meat. The centerpiece of the restaurant is the wood-fired grill where Frank Lebiez, the highly adept chef, cooks well-sourced steaks, fish, lamb, etc. The latter is certainly recommended, both the excellent Rack of Lamb and, particularly, the Leg for two to share. The presence of the grill means that the smell of cooking permeates the atmosphere: it’s impossible to have no appetite when the first thing you inhale is a warm, rosemary-scented waft of air. Happily, portions are generous and sides are very well executed: as you’d expect, the Dauphinois is particularly good. Classic French starters – Onion Soup, some first rate Foie Gras – are also well executed.
With jazz in the upstairs bar on a Wednesday evening and an appealing brunch / daytime menu available until 7pm, Cheyne Walk Brasserie is just adding cherries to an already appealing cake.