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The Box
Newly opened in Soho at 11-12 Walker’s Court W1F 0ED, The Box is very different from most dining venues.

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Blue Lagoon

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204 Fulham Rd SW10
Tel. 7351 4747

Another in the very successful neighbourhood-based Red Pepper group, taking on the karma of a quasi-cursed site in the busy “beach” stretch of Fulham Road. Not much to look at – a simple, narrow-ish white room – but quite a lot to taste. Chef Jun Tanaka’s most recent addition to an impressive CV was sous to Eric Chavot at The Capital. Fried pesto risotto has been wowing the locals, just a block away from Aubergine, while a gallatine of chicken and sun dried tomatoes that is slightly salty and slightly rich goes some way towards rehabilitating that much-maligned vegetable. There are some big guns lurking in mains, like a more-ish Provençal rump of lamb. The outstanding fillet of pork with baby broad beans and asparagus in a cappuccino veg-broth makes one wonder why this meat appears so rarely on menus when, as here, it can be both gutsy and rich, as well as refined and imaginative. Good cheeses, reasonable wines to bring out the cooking, engaging staff. A curse-breaker if ever there was one.