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Review

noble rot

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noble rot
3-5 Mill Street
W1S 2AU
020 7629 8877

Average price per head: £50

From the outside, the lower case noble rot is also quite low key. I must have walked past it several times - I've certainly spent a few afternoons in the pub opposite - without ever noticing this restaurant and private members’ club. However, while the private members club is achingly trendy (a quick glance at the guest list featured several supermodels and more men called Tarquin than you've ever dreamed possible), the restaurant shouldn't be ignored.

The name noble rot refers to Botrytis Cinerea, a fungus that causes grapes to shrivel, concentrating the juice to the necessary intensity for dessert wines. It also summons up a pleasantly shabby mental image of slightly knackered classic furniture and deep red walls. However, the interior is not so much slightly knackered as slightly tired, the design pinning the restaurant firmly in the 90s. It's hard to see it having much appeal in the cold harsh light of lunchtime but at night, with the lighting turned way down (somewhere between "intimate" and "coalmine") it's not unpleasant.

As you would imagine from the name, dessert wines form a major part of the menu. The joyous combination of foie gras and sweet wine is explored in three starters, two of which we sampled. Salade de Gesiers with endive, walnuts, foie gras and Perigord truffle (£7.95 on its own or £12.50 with a glass of Leon Beyer Tokay Pinot Gris) received full marks from my companion, a devoted fan of this French classic. My own Foie gras with caramelised quince terrine, rose-scented Jelly and toasted brioche (£11.95 or £17.50 with a glass of Essentia California Orange Muscat) was also first rate, the excellent pate buoyed interestingly by the more subtly flavoured elements.

With the emphasis squarely on the French end of Modern European fare and our tastebuds now geared up for more Gallic dishes, it was slightly disappointing to be told that the rabbit - something you see too little of these days - was off. Never mind, c'est la vie and all that and the two mains we ordered were nigh on perfect. Roast breast of Aylesbury duck with Gewurtztraminer poached pear, endive tart Tatin with sautéed foie gras (£20.50) was exceptional, the moist piece of meat complemented to great contrasting effect by the rich and sweet accompaniment. With dessert - and dessert wines - an essential yet to come, I took a slightly lighter option of Roast sea bass and seared scallops, with caramelised cauliflower puree and Oloroso reduction (£22) which featured a great piece of fish and fat melting scallops. Even the cauliflower, perhaps my least favourite of vegetables, worked well, the sweet edge providing a good counterbalance. The wine list, as you'd expect, is a collection of the great and the pricey (1912 Tokaji at £1,750 anyone?) but there are good value items to be found, including a good selection of Argentinean reds and whites, and our light but blackcurrant rich Woodbridge Twin Oaks Zinfandel (£26.50).

Desserts - and the accompanying wines - seemed like a fine way to finish the meal. Trio of chocolate (£6.95) with the aforementioned Orange Muscat disappeared quickly, so I'll assume it was good. Bitter chocolate fondant, orange reduction and liquorice ice cream (£6.95 or £11.50 with a glass of Elysium Black Muscat) was less successful. The fondant was wonderful and richly flavoured, and contrasted well with the orange reduction, but the liquorice ice cream didn't really taste of anything. Fortunately the wonderful Elysium gave sufficient kick to overcome any shortcomings.

So, a certain amount of shambling charm, good service (the long G&T delay was the only hiccup) and no little genius in the kitchen. You do have to watch the purse strings though for, while it's possible to eat well and reasonably at noble rot, it's also easy to get carried away, and those supporting dessert wines do mount up. Still, for a special occasion - or if someone else is footing the tab - noble rot comes highly recommended.