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Review

Giardinetto

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New HOME. New IMAGE. Back in its Charlotte Street days, Giardinetto was your common-or-garden trattoria: decent, reliable but a little old-fashioned.

Now they’ve moved to Mayfair… and undergone the sort of reinvention that would have even even Laurence Llewelyn Bowen sucking his teeth and saying “steady on, I think we’ve gone too far.”

There’s reinvention and there’s quantum leap. This is the latter. The chintz has been replaced by glass, steel and copper that dazzles the eye. Seats are very stylised but, happily, far more comfortable than they look. In short, it’s an impressive, ambitious space that reflects the impressive, ambitious menu.

And the impressive, ambitious talent in the kitchen. Some of the dishes are rather eccentric to say the least – Taglioni with chlorophyll and lobster sauce, anyone? – but when things work, boy do they work. Minestrone mantecato al pesto (£10) – a green, Ligurian take on the dish – was robust and superbly flavoured. The more bizarre option of Zuppetta di frutta - fruit and vegetable passion fruit soup with olive oil sorbet – was unbelievable. Sharp, sweet, refreshing and as summery as you can get.

Zuppetta di Pesce was as good as any I’ve had in Europe, the Roasted Rabbit heartily rustic and there’s great cheese. Less impressive was the Carpaccio of Octopus – fresh enough but lacking a certain spark – and a nondescript St Honore cake but when things are good, they’re absolutely remarkable. Not cheap but a memorable experience.