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Best local Indian Restaurant in Essex 2014
One of the finest Indian restaurants in Essex Caraway Indian Brasserie, in Gants Hill, has won the prestigious Best Local Indian Restaurant Award in the Restaurant Guides

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10% Discount with Privilege Card from 11am to 7.30pm
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Review

Mju

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Mju

Milennium Knightsbridge Hotel, 17 Sloane Street, London SW1

Tel: 0845 345 1723

Every now and again you come across a restaurant that’s so on top of its game, you wonder why the Michelin panel haven’t been throwing stars at it. Harden’s have been tipping Mju for a while, Zagat’s ditto, and the AA have lavished rosettes on it. But, as yet, no nod from Michelin. Still, it can’t be far off…
It hasn’t always been the case though. Some four or five years ago, the restaurant space at the Milennium Knightsbridge Hotel was at very low ebb, serving poor-to-average food in bland, typically hotel surroundings. Now though, the room is dramatic and beautiful and the – Asian-influenced – food is terrific.

Under the guidance of chef Tom Thomsen, dinner at Mju hovers somewhere around the five course mark – good value at £46 – or more if you opt for his individually-tailored tasting menu. That might suggest “gourmand” rather than “gourmet” but the Asian influences extend to the size of the portions, providing a remarkable series of tastes that gradually satiates the appetite without ever necessitating a loosening of the belt.

Dishes such as glazed foie gras, apple salad and Granny Smith sorbet , blue fin tuna with wasabi ice cream, langoustine dumpling in a black truffle broth and lobster linguini show a chef at the peak of his powers. Thomsen’s way with the simpler fare – the green miso soup is dizzyingly good – is also a good indication of his talents. In fact, there was only one duff note: an otherwise exemplary chocolate fondant comes with parsnip ice cream, a not entirely suitable earthy hint that just feels like an idea too far.

The wine list is also impressive, although for the tasting menus, it’s possible to match each course with a glass. This comes at three price levels: £25 for good wines, £50 for some very fine wines and £100 for such wines as hedonistic dreams are made of. While the upper levels bring their own obvious benefits, the basic accompaniment is excellent value.
All in all, a top notch experience that’s well worth seeking out.