Best local Indian Restaurant in Essex 2014
One of the finest Indian restaurants in Essex Caraway Indian Brasserie, in Gants Hill, has won the prestigious Best Local Indian Restaurant Award in the Restaurant Guides
The Hart Brothers
The Hart Brothers, who have made Quo Vadis and Fino into such success stories
5 Regent Street, Kensal Green,
Tel: 020 8969 2184
Is the Parlour a pub? A gastropub or perhaps just a restaurant? Well, letâs not split hairs and say that itâs a modern British restaurant that just happens to be located in a charming old pub. In fact, with its butcherâs tiles, leather banquettes and dark wood panelling, the establishment even plays up its pub-like roots by offering an excellent range of beers. But itâs the food where the action is at!
First off, you are better off getting the âchefâsâ table to be up, close and personal to all the theatricality that chef Jesse Dunford Wood. Yes, theatrical being the operative word because boy, oh boy, does he like to put on a show with all the verve and showmanship he can muster! Not so much in that heâs a performer, but more so in the style and presentation of his cooking.
Pleasingly, in most cases it works, albeit not always â both in the oodles of style he brings and flavour.
Starters are collectively a great success: chestnut hummus with rosemary pitta bread, popcorn chicken nuggets (yes, donât miss!)and a rather inventive raw vegetable âravioli with goatsâ cheese. Each item flourishes with its own personality and is all the more welcome. Where the menu sadly fails is in the guide of the anti-climactic mains - from the chicken kyiv to the fishcakes with mange tout and âcaviarâ tartare â all leaning on the stodgy and lacking in finesse. Portion sizes should also aspire to less is more.
However, the chef pulls back up again with a masterful stroke of dessert â or should one say several desserts - which can only be described as something out of Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory! A plastic sheet is laid on the table, dry ice is dispersed into the air and then Wood gets to work by âpaintingâ on the desserts â from an assortment of ice creams to Battenburg cake and from various flavours of jelly to yoghurt and much, much more. Itâs an orgy of utter sweetness and a fine example of Woodâs flair and talent.
By Humayun Hussain