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Review

PJ’S Bar & Grill

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52 Fulham Road, London SW3
(020 7581 0025)

It’s very hard to argue with the Maxwell’s philosophy. This unashamedly popular chain won’t be troubling the Michelin judges anytime soon and I doubt Jamie Oliver’s looking over his shoulder, but when you want decent enough food at non-overdraft threatening prices, they’re a reliable bet.

There’s a fair amount of difference across the chain too. At one end you’ve got Maxwell’s itself, the noisy Covent Garden burger and fries stalwart and at the other there’s Fulham’s really rather good Cactus Blue. PJ’s is somewhere in the middle.

Room wise, it’s a winner, with lots of dark wood, a HUGE bar and soft lighting. Some will argue that it’s an Americana cliché and they might be right. But hell, it suits the menu, the beer is cold and it’s a pleasant place to hang out.

The cooking is solid if not particularly inspirational. Starters of Chargrilled Asparagus, Balsamic, Olive Oil and Reggiano (£6.95) and Rocket, Parma Ham and Shaved Parmesan (£9.95) were simple and efficient. Not earth-shattering by any means but tasty enough.

With a Redwood Trail Pinot Noir (£17) to ease the way, my colleague’s 8oz Fillet Steak with Peppered Sauce (£14.95) and my own 12oz Argentinean Sirloin Bearnaise (£13.95) arrived: just two slabs of cow, cooked as requested. Portions are generous too, making the sides of French Fries (£2.95) and Rocket Salad (£3.95) somewhat superfluous. Everything was perfectly decent. Not exemplary, not dull – just hale and hearty.

Puddings (all £4.95) were then deemed a necessity partly due to the chill in the air but mostly because they’re puddings. Chocolate Cheesecake with White Chocolate Sauce was the artery hardening pleasure it sounds. Tarte Tain of Pears with Jersey Cream on the other hand was a touch overcooked.

Still, a slightly charred Tarte is a small price to pay. As is £80 for two.