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The Box
Newly opened in Soho at 11-12 Walker’s Court W1F 0ED, The Box is very different from most dining venues.
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Review
The Big Easy
As the name suggests, The Big Easy is an American-style restaurant. The setting’s a little unlikely – the former heart of Swinging London – but what the hell. We’re international these days…
However, while the menu is pure US – lots of manly meat, rah – and the room is set out like a crabshack, there is one surprise that lifts Big Easy head and shoulders above its rivals: a wine list of quite exceptional quality.
On the downside, there’s a tendency to underestimate wait times, one of those little “go spend at the bar” tricks that annoy me intensely. Another grumble would have to be the quality of the crab claws. The setting – which is a little naff, if we’re being honest – suggests crab is going to be a knockout. Instead, it was tasteless and cold.
But that’s it for grumbles. Once seated, and past the crab, everything else was good to excellent with fiery, meaty chicken wings, good hearty jumbo shrimp, and top quality steaks. Staff know their food and their wine, making two suggestions that greatly improved my experience. As for desserts… well, they look great, but two courses in and the belt was already on the last notch.
Healthniks need not apply and it IS a little at the pricey end – a decent Pinot Noir was £31, you’re touching £20 per steak – but for basic meat and red wine packages, Big Easy is a very good bet indeed.