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The Box
Newly opened in Soho at 11-12 Walker’s Court W1F 0ED, The Box is very different from most dining venues.

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Review

The Island

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Without wishing to knock suburbia, Kensal Green isn’t exactly the first place which comes to mind when one thinks of an impressionable new bar and restaurant. Besides, the locality, filed with terraced housing, isn’t the most buzzing either though it does make the establishment’s namesake more pronounced. North African-style lamps both outside and in are eye-catching while the two-floor premises – bar downstairs, brasserie-style restaurant above – offer an airy, earthy and eclectic décor. Cocktails in the former are punchy and well-rendered, but the problem that there just isn’t in the way of variety. So one has to make do with the likes of mojito, long island ices tea and so on. The main dining experience works to better effect albeit with grub which is shy of adventurous. Starters include a fine home-style thin crust asparagus and cream tart along with a tomato bruschetta with grilled sardines. Mains are strong on seafood featuring a winning baked hake with baby fennel, French beans and hollandaise. The wine list is surprisingly extensive. A decent place for sure, but nothing to set the world on fire.