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The Box
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Review

Utsav

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Utsav has horrible décor. It’s the sort of stark white, brightly lit, blue neon place that suggests late night chicken shawarmas on Edgware Road, rather than high end, excellent Indian restaurant. But high end, excellent Indian is what you get.

Machlike Tinkey, sliced squid with garlic, sauteed with chilli and spring onions, was good. Tirangi Chicken Tikka, saffron, cheese and green herb flavoured chicken tikka (the colours represent the Indian flag), was better. And Gol Goppa was the best of all. A traditional beach snack in India, these are puffed wheat parcels filled with chick peas and potatoes. They come with a bowl of cumin-flavoured water. You spoon the water into the top of the parcel until it’s full then pop the whole thing in your mouth where it explodes in a satisfying burst of flavours. Delicious, unusual and a lot of fun too.

Mians were more mixed. Chicken Varutha Curry packed flavour and subtle heat in each succulent mouthful. Halibut Allepy Curry was less successful, the subtle fish overpowered by the sauce. Tomato Dal was rich and delicious though, and the naans are breathtaking. At the manager’s recommendation we tried Khurmi Naan, topped with tomato and cheese. “Pizza naan?” we thought, slightly bemused, “that’s not going to work.” But it does. And how. Not only was it the best naan I’ve ever had, it was probably the best Neopolitan pizza too.

Décor aside, it’s definitely worth a shot.