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The Box
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Review

Victoriana

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The people behind this new Italian were also the ones behind the City’s well regarded Latium restaurant. No doubting the pedigree then, even though this is very much a local suburban-set restaurant. Its name derives from an old bust of Queen Victoria which adorns the bar here while the place still has a whiff of the period about it with even an antique sign of a Waitrose store as the premises happen to be one of the original shops. There are of course contemporary fixtures here too and the cooking leans on the modern for sure. Octopus with celery and potato salad works in harmony with its sharp lemon dressing. Ditto the marinated beef carpaccio with artichoke and parmesan. The mains are less successful – the grilled monkfish overwhelmed by a slew of cherry tomatoes – but there’s no question that the home-made pasta exemplified by the likes of duck ravioli with ceps, is top-notch. Desserts reveal a refreshingly good watermelon granite.