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Review

Wagamama

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Wagamama
260 High Street Kensington
London W6
and branches across London

Average price per head (without alcohol): £12

It is nearly a decade since Wagamama first opened in London, bringing the chaotic and uncomfortable world of canteen-style noodle bars to the UK. Yet on his first visit, my American-tourist, dining neighbour, summed up what it is that makes it such a raging success. “This is the kinda’ place you’d come, even if you had loads of money-cos’ it’s cool!”

Wagamama has become a hugely successful chain of franchised restaurants. Many have developed their own ambience: from the ordered chaos of High St Kensington to the Zen-like calm of Harvey Nichols. Although each retains the original minimilistic canteen, fully fitted with long tables and benches and a view of the open kitchens where you can watch the chefs hot-woking away.

Wagamama’s offers not only a menu but also an ethos of “positive eating + positive living”. Hence no smoking and no deserts. But there is a huge amount of choice and vegetarians and vegans are well catered for.
The starters are tantalising and it’s worth ordering a few to sample. The raw salad and the fruit juice are not as plain as they sound and are to be experienced for their taste and freshness. The steamed chicken, prawn and vegetable dumplings, “Gyoza”, are deliciously moorish (my choice every time).

The main dishes range from Ramen (soup based noodle dishes), to curries, rice and noodle stir fries. My favourite is number 43 Amai Udon (teppan-fried wholemeal noodles with vegetable, prawns, tofu, crushed peanuts and lime). Another favourite is the chicken ramen, a hot broth of chicken, noodles and vegetables. Be prepared: dishes arrive when they are ready and in any order. Hot from the wok! There is a range of wines, Japanese beer and soft drinks on offer to accompany your meal. You could choose green tea, with as many free refills as you please.

Although the canteen benches won’t be favoured by those with a sore coccyx or stiff back, the restaurant still manages to attract a diverse crowd. From the young and hip out for a quick meal, the famous (Ruby Wax is a regular), the tourist who wants to sample London’s trendiness, even senior citizens, out for a taste of what the young are into these days.