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The Box
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Review

ZUMA

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When it opened in May 2002, Zuma was the place to be seen, an in-spot for the in-crowd. That’s not that surprising given its Knightsbridge location, stylish interior and superb cocktails. What is surprising is that four years on, the normally fickle in-crowd are still hanging around, which suggests Zuma must be doing something very right indeed.

They are. The food is of exceptional quality. The fish is of quite astonishing freshness. And there are so many good things to eat.

Seaweed came not in the standard crispy form but as an excellent salad of five different “leaves”, all of which are delicious. Seared tuna came from a fish that could well have been swimming that morning, judging by the flavour. Other dishes saw journalistic integrity go out the window; notes were overlooked in favour of hovering up some excellent food. The star of the plate was memorable though, pen or no pen: Dynamite Spider Roll. It may look like something from the dinner party scene in Beetlejuice but it’s, well, dynamite.

Satiation point was rapidly approaching but a neighbouring couple ordered Tempura which looked too good to miss. It was. Light batter, first rate ingredients, and nigh on perfect.

Great desserts – in both classic Western and intriguingly Oriental flavours – finished us off in style. A genuinely great find and, not as expensive as you might fear.